Looking to a bright future, Paul Smith’s autumn/winter’ 18 collection escapes to a more peaceful and positive place with dreamlike colours and motifs, fantastical embroidery and a softening of traditional sartorial codes
With tailoring forever at the heart of Paul Smith, the collection celebrates the suit and reasserts its relevance. Confident statement suits are presented for both men and women.
In the opening look smooth satin lapels roll into dense pleats with jacquard wool sleeves woven with dancing fairies. On single pieces, houndstooth is panelled alongside Prince of Wales check and leather juxtaposed with hardy British tailoring cloths. The added length in jackets is a nod to Paul’s own past when in the Eighties he led a confident movement to relax the suit, again reasserting its relevance.
Muted colour builds to a crescendo of bright red. Illustrator Edmund Dulac inspires a romantic palette of midnight blues, deep purples and other jewel-tones. Painterly prints bring a much-needed sense of optimism and respite from world woes and are delivered in other-worldly psychedelic florals and ethereal moonlit landscapes. Of particular prominence in the collection is the Dreamer print, seen most vividly in the intricacy of woven lambswool and mohair knitwear.
For women, tailoring is similarly relaxed but always has form. Suit jackets are deconstructed but follow the female figure; hugging at the waist to give a naturally confident shape that is never masculine. Satin dresses have an effortless elegance and appliquéd ribbon bows give detail and are inspired by Paul’s own drawings of flowers.
In outerwear, length is again accentuated. The perfect, timeless Epsom coat in a traditional English fabric is given an unexpected burst of vibrancy in turquoise and heavy leather coats appear in the Dulac-inspired jewel-tones. Leather engineering boots and tool bags further contrast the softened, relaxed tailoring.
Friendship bracelets and charms on necklaces and earrings bring to life the theme of escapism and a sense of individuality and self-expression.
View the Collection here: www.paulsmith.com